ZIFF opening ceremony

was last night at the Old Fort, where slaves were brought and held for auction. Amphitheater under the stars, filled with music, dance, film, vibrating against the massive towers at each corner of the fortress.

What stayed with me was the Maulidi ya Homu; Sufi dance and music, performed by a troupe of young boys in white kanzus and embroidered blue caps. They knelt on the stage, arms and torsos fluid as living coral. Bowed forward, swayed back, moved like one body, to waves and currents of sound.